What we can learn from other cultures about nose-to-tail dining
When launching Nose-to-Tail Month last year we had to give some thought to exactly how open Kiwis are to embracing this eating philosophy. Undoubtedly some nose-to-tail cuts are now highly sought after, such as lamb shanks, shins, oxtails and cheeks. But in all honesty, those cuts are an easy sell as they still have a texture and taste we are familiar with. But what about some of the more non-traditional cuts along with the often daunting and divisive offal – how ready are New Zealanders to pop them on their weekly meal plan?
We weren't sure how our new July initiative would go last year but after the keen interest we received from chefs and the public we were pleased to see it was something very much worth doing this year too. What we learnt from social media engagement is that nose-to-tail eating was far more widely accepted in older adults who’d grown up with it, and also from the many different cultures who have settled in Aotearoa and brought with them their traditional nose-to-tail recipes. My question is, could we look to these different cultural cuisines to train our taste buds to be open to trying something new and making nose-to-tail eating more palatable for everyone.
Growing up in a traditional Polish home, offal and different nose-to-tail cuts were often on the dinner menu. Weirdly, seeing pig trotters simmering in a big pot on the stove, got me excited, because I knew we’d be eating Zimne Nogi, (meaning ‘cold feet’) for dinner. My mother turned the juice and meat from those trotters, along with a bit of beef and vegetables, into the most delicious brawn, served simply with a squeeze of lemon and a sprinkle of fresh herbs. Better still was flaczki, a rich, beef tripe, soupy-stew which is a firm favourite in many Polish households. Growing up this way means if I see offal on a restaurant menu it’s always my go-to choice.
But how does that work for everyday Kiwis who may not have grown up eating what I did? While this generation may not be regular consumers of liver, kidneys, hearts and brains at home, it turns out they are open to trying it when someone else makes it. Our Beef and Lamb Ambassador Chef, Jack Crosti, (Mela Restaurant in Auckland) says these underrated cuts can actually be the stars on a restaurant menu if treated in the proper way. He says you can get incredible results with nose-to-tail cuts, and can give customers the opportunity to try something they have never eaten before, which they often enjoy. Last year Jack created a Milanese Osso Bucco (which I learnt means hollowed bone) and Crumbed Sweetbreads and Cannellini Bean Salad for us, which were a big hit.
Jack says that offal and other secondary cuts are an important part of Italian cuisine, especially in the Lombardi region where he comes from. Traditionally, less common parts of the animal were used to make meat go further and these cuts were cheap and full of nutrients. Over the generations the popularity and benefits of eating nose-to-tail grew and offal and secondary cuts are still very popular on restaurant menus all over Italy.
In general, chefs love the nose-to-tail philosophy, as it allows their restaurant to make ethical and sustainable use of the whole animal. Another of our Beef + Lamb New Zealand Ambassadors, Scottish-born David Burt (Bracken Restaurant in Dunedin) learned to cook with offal even before his chef training began. His version of haggis gives Bracken’s menu a point of difference, and his Dunedin-based customers just cannot get enough of it. David doesn’t cook his haggis using the traditional sheep’s stomach, which gives a much stronger flavour and can overpower the palate. He prefers a more mellow mix of livers, hearts, lungs and kidneys with onion, oats, herbs and spices which he serves in a variety of ways such as filling in ravioli, haggis sausages, pan-fried rounds, mousse, black pudding, often accompanied by his famous whiskey sauce. Truly delicious.
Maybe when you’re next out at a restaurant, be a bit adventurous, consider giving a nose-to-tail dish a try. Why not order a Charcuterie platter or bypass that steak for a more non-traditional cut? You might be surprised.